Time off: Sihanoukville and Songkran
Door: Martin
23 April 2013 | Thailand, Bangkok
All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy and isn’t that just the truth. Since the beginning of this month I am once again a free man or just unemployed if you’re nit picking. However this unemployment is, unlike so many in the west, voluntary. I’ve work for more consecutive months than I care to recount and after finishing my contract like a good boy it’s time to relax and enjoy myself.
As a first stop for some fun I had wanted to go to Vang Vieng a place that is very dear to me. When I was there some 5 years ago I had the time of my life and vowed to come back there the next time I was in the neighbourhood. Upon telling one of my friends of my plans I got the sad news that Vang Viengs tubing is no more (apparently the occasional death turned into an almost weekly event). I burst out in tears held a private moment of silence for that amazing place and decided on a visit to a beach instead.
Original plans when coming to Thailand more than a year ago had included some beach time to top up a then fading tan. Due to an unforeseen act of responsible behaviour I had enrolled in my TEFL course before I had a chance to go to a beach. Roughly 15 months after that event it was time to finally hit the beach, topping up a tan would imply that I’d have a tan but by now I was as pale as the day I was born.
Visa problems are never far away so I choose to leave Thailand so I could fly back in to avoid having to get a new visa. Cambodia is closest to Bangkok and I remembered having a lovely time in Sihanoukville some years ago. Sihanoukville had then been a mellow an relaxing place where I spend a few days as a conclusion to a nice trip through SE Asia. This time it would kick of my “travels” if you will.
Monkey Republic had then been the place to go to so that’s where I was heading this time round only to find it had been burned to the ground just days before me arriving there, must’ve been one hell of party. On the bus ride from Bangkok I met a nice Swedish guy who was on a short holiday to get away from the cold, together with this guy we decided to stay in the next best thing which was Big Eazy. Typical backpacker hang out, shabby rooms with questionable hygiene but a killer common area with cheap food and a bar. The weather was sweltering and as enticing as the beach looked I was afraid I would burn badly in about 30 minutes, so I decided to wander around a bit. The town pretty much looked like I remembered it besides the fact that it was now 100% catered towards Western tourists. Having eaten Asian food up to three times a day for over a year I felt no shame in indulging in a number of much missed Western meals.
It isn’t until night time that Sihanoukville really comes to life and shortly after that it does in fact look like the dead have come back alive as well, as you see many drunken idiots stumbling around like zombies (as well as yours truly some days if I’m honest). The once mellow and relaxing place had turned into a hardcore partyzone. With bars boasting banners that say “Let’s get fucked up” and every bar giving away free drinks as well as offering drinks at ridiculously low prices (beers as cheap as $0.25) it became clear that mellow would no longer be chosen as a word to describe Sihanoukville.
In my time there I had tons of fun met new and old friends had some amazing bbq’d seafood and meat and did regain somewhat of a tan. There was an idea of doing some diving as well but as I spoke to a number of dive schools it became clear that without them willing to admit it the diving was pretty shit over there, “same as Thailand but maybe a little bit less” not exactly worth the money.
After a week full of excessive behaviour a left town to go back to Phnom Penh to fly back to Bangkok. Phnom Penh had also changed greatly over the years and looked a lot more modern than the sleepy capital it used to be. For accommodation I went back to lakeside where everything was pleasantly the same. While checking in I was already offered to smoke because surely someone from the Netherlands would love to smoke. A very puzzled face was the result of someone declining free drugs let alone a Dutch person
The flight back was aside from some turbulence relatively uneventful. I have to admit though that seeing all those terrified faces when the plane hits the rough weather and some air pockets always makes for great entertainment for me. We landed 20 minutes ahead of schedule (which is impressive on a 70 minute flight) and I was back in my apartment within 50 minutes of touch down. On the cab ride back I realised how much Bangkok has become my home over the last year, it’s nice to speak Thai again (even though I can’t speak it at all), having your trusty Thai Baht and eating delicious Thai food. As much as I never wanted to stay here for a long time the place is without doubt a second (or maybe third) home.
The reason for my return to Bangkok was the same as for many travellers to hit Bangkok that weekend: Songkran. Last year I had the best time celebrating it and I was delighted to have another go at this amazing festival. Songkran is the Thai New Year which is celebrated by throwing water at each other for 3 possible 4 consecutive days (I think I explained the more traditional ceremony about the festival last year so I won’t do that again here).
Officially Songkran starts on Saturday but you can find plenty of water fights on Friday too. With this knowledge I went to meet some friends for a few drinks but still decided not to dress for the occasion, the occasion being the fact that you will get drenched in water. Luckily a heads up from my friend made me realise that if I wanted to use my phone beyond the next hour I would have to buy some protection (ha ha ha). Armed with a waterproof pouch I went into the street where I was supposed to meet my friends where indeed an all-out waterfight was taking place between opposite sides of the street. With a big smile on my face I tried to dodge as much water as possible to reach the pub and the conclusion that Songkran was indeed back on. After having spent some time with friends and getting some Dutch courage I once again braved the water to get to another meeting with friends. Jeans and shoes might not have been the best choice of clothing but when you get drenched it really doesn’t matter what you’re wearing because not a fibre of it will remain dry.
A clear blue sky and balmy temperatures greeted me on Saturday morning and I was amped to go out and have all the Songkran fun you can have. With a group of friends we set out for Khoa San to have an epic day of fun. Amongst are ranks were a number of first timers who reminded me of my first time when I couldn’t believe just how much fun it was. There had been talk about an alcohol ban during these days but I don’t think anyone had any real believe in that working out, there is just too much money to be made on selling drinks. Sure Songkran is great even without alcohol but like many things it’s even better with alcohol.
With my water gun I quickly transformed back to my 12-year-old me, up to a certain extend off course. Even though the twelve year old me would tease girls that I would find interesting I don’t quite think it would translate into blasting their boobs water a strong burst of water. It’s a funny thing how flirting becomes remarkably efficient with waterguns. When you see a good looking girl you get her attention by squirting her boobs if the approve the return fire by wetting your crotch (and please get your mind out of the gutter people). Shooting the guys just results in a team versus team waterwar where the numbers and the size of your gun matter. Sunglasses turn into water shields and can turn a stand-off where both parties are aiming for the eyes in a victory when the other party doesn’t wear protective eye-gear.
The scale of the entire party is hard to describe it goes on for blocks and there must be thousands upon thousands of people running round all having a blast. There are a few hotspots in Bangkok where Songkran is celebrated on a grand scale. The before mentioned Khoa San is a big one as is Silom road and at night time RCA goes bananas. There’s a number of smaller scale venues and then there’s random water fights going all over the city and there people driving round in pickup trucks filled with water throwing people in the back of them.
Over the next couple of days we hit all the spots and thoroughly enjoyed all of them. We lost people and made new friends, lost/broke guns and replaced them with better ones, got bruised and battered but we weren’t broken, got tipsy and sobered up, but as fantastic as it all was I was relieved when it was all over again on Tuesday. 4 days of fun with a week of madness before that is a pretty good run but man, did I enjoy that Tuesday of doing absolutely fuck all.
Jump forward to the present where all aches are almost gone (including a double ear infection, I guess the water wasn’t that clean) and it’s time for a new adventure. Over the last days I’ve gotten my visa and tickets for my next destination. For many years now I have been wanting to go to the Philippines and this Friday that’s exactly where I’ll be flying off to. Right now I am just clearing out my apartment and getting ready to become homeless again with all my worldly possessions snugly fit into a backpack, daypack and (sadly) an extra carry on suitcase for my new teacher’s wardrobe.
So if all goes well and I find the time for an update my next story should be a travel tale full of wonderful and adventurous stuff that should make you very jealous again!
Until the next time
Martin
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23 April 2013 - 10:52
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